My Guide To Tulum, Mexico — by Courtney Brown

Our days were split between time relaxing on the white sand beach eating ceviche and bicycling through town, the lush jungle on one side and the turquoise sea on the other. At night, torchlit paths led us through the jungle to trend-setting restaurants featuring wood-fire cooking and house-special mezcals. All-in-all, Tulum was exactly as I expected it to be.

Like many millennials, Tulum, Mexico slinked its way onto my "must-visit" list in recent years, as the countless glossy photos of this eco-chic paradise that filled my Instagram feed intrigued me. Located on the Yucatán Peninsula, Tulum is a land of macramé hammocks, acai bowls and white sand beaches, where environmentally friendly standards are the norm and strong emphasis is placed on culinary arts and wellness. These days this boho beach town offers visitors the opportunity to feel like a free-spirited traveler, while in reality, stays at luxury boutique hotels and meals at hip restaurants are what they come for (whether they like to admit it or not).

Many will say that Tulum's glory days have come and gone; that the beach town once favored by backpackers and hippies has lost its magic due to the invasion of nightlife and influencers, and while I personally don't know what Tulum was like pre-social media, I do know that I can't think of a destination that has reigned longer as the "It Spot" because of Instagram than Tulum. But, like any destination that becomes “the place to go”, there's good reason why Tulum became so popular! Its beauty, history and utmost regard for wellness have not changed, and are still the reasons it’s worth visiting today.

Part of me fell in love with the long, windy dirt road that gingerly holds both Mayan authenticity and modern outposts for the stylish set, while the other part of me couldn't help but wonder if all the hype surrounding Tulum were not to exist, would I question how I ended up here? Did I genuinely love it, or did I love it because I’ve been “told” I should love it? I've pondered this for a few weeks now and still cannot pinpoint my exact feelings, but what I can say is that I enjoyed my time and am so happy I finally experienced Tulum for myself! I just don’t know how soon I’ll return. Once may have been enough. If you find yourself being drawn to Tulum, below is my rundown of the places to go, things to do and what you should know before booking your trip.

My Travel Guide to Tulum: Mexico's Eco-Chic Beach Town

tulum post-25.jpg — SAFETY

Before I dive in to the places and things you should add to your itinerary, I want to touch on the subject of safety, as it was a topic the worrier in me wanted to know as much about as possible prior to booking.

To be completely honest, I was hesitant to book this trip. I have, unfortunately, known of enough people who have had scary experiences in Mexico, that over the years I have associated the country with potential dangers I'd prefer to steer clear of while on vacation. I realize that Mexico is a very large country and not all areas pose threats, but it's been hard for me to overlook what I've been told. However, the main reason for our trip was to celebrate with our friends on their wedding day (something we did not want to miss!), so I did some research and asked others who had recently been in Tulum and surrounding areas their experience with safety, and, ultimately, decided to go.

With the trip behind us, I can report that while there was never a moment where I felt unsafe during our time in Tulum, I did have my guard up more than I would like to on a relaxing vacation. I don't know if that caution was necessary, but it's just how I personally felt, especially at night. I believe a large part of my worry stemmed from this being our first trip without Sophie. If you want to know more about potential dangers and safety tips while traveling in Mexico, I read this blog article a year or so ago that I found helpful. And as with any international travel, I suggest checking the State Department's website before booking.

WHAT TO KNOW

A few things to keep in mind before booking your trip and helpful tips while in Tulum…

Tulum is located 70 miles from Cancun International Airport, so be prepared for a drive upon landing. It's an easy drive, just a little bit of a journey. Fortunately, for us, it was a short two hour flight from Atlanta, which makes the Yucatán Peninsula a big draw for East Coasters!
Book a car service to and from the airport and skip a rental car, as there are too many potential dangers and scams. We used Amstar for our car service and had a pleasant experience.
Tulum is broken up into a few sections making it confusing when booking online. Make sure you book a hotel or Airbnb in the Hotel Zone along the beach - that's where you’ll find the center-of-it-all action. Downtown Tulum is where you'll find the city center and more local color.
A quick Tulum Google search will clue you in to the fact that seaweed is a major problem along Tulum's seemingly flawless beach. To be honest, I was anticipating not wanting to spend much time at the beach due to the mess and smell I had read it causes, but found the hotels do a great job of cleaning it up each morning and hardly noticed it. It's a beautiful beach with fine, white sand!
Another thing I read over and over again is that Tulum is primarily a cash only town. In reality, the time I made us spend at the Cancun airport getting pesos was a waste of time. The majority of the places we went took credit cards, and if not, US Dollars were accepted. Of course, it can't hurt to have pesos on you, but it wasn't near as much of a thing as I expected it to be.
Tulum. Is. Hot. I know this should come as no surprise given it's the jungle, but I found myself saying multiple times per day that I've never been so hot! The main reason I mention this is because we visited in October, which is one of the cooler/rainy months for the region and we still were dying, so just keep that in mind when considering what time of year to visit.

tulum post-2.jpg — WHERE TO EAT

For many travelers, part of the draw to Tulum is its burgeoning culinary scene. While we had some wonderful meals, we, sadly, hardly scratched the restaurant surface. Here are my dining recommendations…

Kin Toh - An absolute must for your Tulum itinerary! Located at Azulik Hotel, Kin Toh offers surreal architectural design - a treehouse with private nests, rope bridges and oversized nets for lounging, all soaring high above the ground within the Mayan Jungle. We went our first night in town for wedding week welcome drinks and it was the perfect introduction to Tulum! I can confidently say it's unlike anywhere I've ever been or anywhere I'll ever be. Enjoy the candlelit bar or reserve a table for a Mayan-Mexican inspired dinner.
Posada Margherita - I know, "Italian in Mexico", really?? I was thinking the same thing but read over and over again that Posada Margherita was not to be missed, so, we did not. I can now add my name to the long list of recommenders. The fresh pasta was delicious, but the intimate setting is what really made the meal. We were disappointed to find out that the pizza listed on the menu online cannot be ordered in the main dining room, so if pizza is what you're craving, grab a slice at the pizzeria off the entrance of the property and head to the beautiful beachfront. Note, this restaurant only takes cash.
Nu Tulum - The setting of Nu was everything I envisioned Tulum to be! A moody, jungle, open-air dining room glowing with candle light and the air hazy with incense was the backdrop for our delicious meal of fresh fish dishes and mezcal cocktails.
Raw Love - In a town where fresh, healthy food is more common than not, Raw Love sets the bar at a whole new level with its gluten-free, dairy-free, vegan menu. Fresh juices, acai bowls and smoothies dominate the menu, which is exactly what you’ll crave while spending time in the heat. We stopped for smoothies during a bike ride through town, and per usual in Tulum, we enjoyed the setting just as much as the food. And it's near impossible to miss - just look for the towering wooden figurative sculpture and you're there. You'll know when you see it!
Ocumare - Ocumare quickly became our go-to spot, as it was located off the lobby of our hotel, Be Tulum, and served refreshing passionfruit water at the bar which we couldn’t get enough of! While the drinks are delicious, the restaurant is also worth having dinner at. Created by an award-winning Michelin Star chef, Ocumare is a shared dining concept with small dishes inspired by flavors from around the world. At night, live music serenades guests while bamboo chandeliers sway in the wind, creating a romantic setting.
Hartwood and Gitano - While I can't speak from experience, Hartwood and Gitano are Tulum staples, so look into making reservations prior to your trip as they book up fast.

Be Tulum - We stayed at well-known Be Tulum and had a lovely stay! Tucked into the lush jungle with the sand just steps away, the hotel's 64 suites are each unique, boasting native materials and features such as plunge pools and rooftop terraces. The property was tranquil and quiet, making us feel like we had the place to ourselves. I'll do a full review soon.

Sanara - I've heard good things about Sanara, which means "we will heal" in Spanish. The hotel features a spectacular beach-appointed yoga studio, a world-class wellness center and highly acclaimed restaurant, The Real Coconut.

Hotel Esencia - Located halfway between Tulum and Playa Del Carmen sits Hotel Esencia, a 50-acre estate that feels more like your friend's beach house than a hotel. Originally built as a private hideaway home for an Italian duchess, the property was renovated in 2014 and is continually receiving accolades such as "Mexico's Best Luxury Boutique Hotel" (World Travel Awards Winner 2017). It's definitely removed from the heart of Tulum, but depending on the type of vacation you want, that may not be a bad thing.

Casa Pueblo Boca Paila - If we return to Tulum, I have my sights set on Boca Paila, the newly opened sister property to Casa Pueblo Tulum Pueblo. Offering a slight departure from the typical Tulum style, this oceanfront property features Caribbean Colonial design that's centered around a pool wrapped in red and white hand crafted tiles by local artisans. Insta-worthy to say the least! Airy, contemporary architecture, natural materials and candlelight provide a sophisticated backdrop for your stay.

tulum post-17.jpg — WHAT TO DO

We did relatively little exploring as it was hard to pull us away from the novelty of relaxing beachside sans baby, but Tulum offers so much to see and do!

Bicycle around town - No trip to Tulum is complete without a bike ride through town. I highly recommend taking a cruise first thing when you arrive to help get a sense of what all the hotel zone offers. Most hotels offers complimentary bikes for their guests, but there are a handful of rental shops in town if your accommodations do not provide them.

Shop - Tulum is full of one-of-a-kind boutiques selling airy caftans, macramé wall hangings and local goods. As with the restaurants, I feel like we only saw a small portion, but recommend hitting Daria Tulum at Posada Margherita Hotel, Arte Sano and the shops at Tulik next to Nest hotel.

Swim in cenotes - One of the most popular things to do in the Yucatán is to go for a swim in a cenote, a natural sinkhole created where a cave ceiling has collapsed, and with Tulum being home to the largest underwater cave system in the world, there's no better place to enjoy these crystal clear waters considered sacred by the Mayan people. While there are over 6,000 cenotes in the Yucatán Peninsula, the best ones to visit near Tulum are Gran Cenote, Cenote Cristal and Dos Ojos Cenote.

Visit the Mayan Ruins - Overlooking the sea, Tulum National Park is home to some of the most well-preserved Mayan ruins in the world. Once a seaport trading mainly turquoise and jade, this ancient Mayan city is now open daily for visitors to explore. I recommend going right as it opens at 8am, as by late morning it’s swarming with tourists.

Explore SFER IK - For an out-of-the-box experience, add a visit to SFER IK to your itinerary. Truly the best way to get a sense of what this open air art gallery is all about is to view photos. It's located at Azulik Hotel, so plan to visit before your dinner at Kin Toh.
Yoga on the beach - Tulum and yoga feel almost synonymous. It’s inescapable! While most hotels offer classes, places such as Maya Tulum come highly recommended if you’re looking to venture off property.