Hotel Spotlight: Aman Sveti Stefan in Montenegro
Have you ever booked a trip off of a single photo? Literally one picture? I have…
I’m continuously searching for intriguing properties or inspiring places to put on my must-visit bucket list, and the hunt of finding where we might go next is almost as exciting as the travel itself! Knowing we would have a few days free after our trip to Italy this past summer, I began searching for a new place to explore. I wanted to discover somewhere different, somewhere unique… And then I saw a picture of Aman Sveti Stefan and knew that our next adventure would be in Montenegro.
If you’ve read my past posts or followed our adventures, you know how much I love and appreciate an amazing hotel or resort (who doesn’t?!). It’s without a doubt my favorite part about traveling, and the elation of checking in at a bucket list hotels never gets old. We’ve had the privilege of visiting a number of phenomenal places that had been on that list. I even started my blog to highlight these experiences! I say all that to bring context to this... Aman Sveti Stefan is special. It sounds simple, but that's what makes the statement so significant.
I've sat on this article for some time now, largely because writing has been put on the back burner now that I'm a mom, but also because I’ve wanted to be so clever in how I write this review, to try and find a way to convey just how magical and unique Aman Sveti Stefan is. A task I find a bit daunting. How do I adequately describe a once fortified island village from the 15th century that has been expertly transitioned into a luxury resort? Can I paint the picture for you that does justice to the one so clear in my head, of cobblestone lanes winding through a maze of ivy covered walls, ancient church steeples peeking above a sea of terra-cotta tiles, the sun dancing off the Adriatic down below? It was like I was transported to another time, my heart captivated by its charm and authenticity, to a place unlike anything else in the world. A destination, if there has ever been one...
To be honest, while I had an idea that Montenegro was close enough to visit post Italy, I was unsure exactly where it was located on the map. If you're wondering the same thing, it's on the Adriatic Sea, part of the Balkans, nestled between Serbia, Albania and Bosnia & Herzegovina. And if you're still unsure, it lies about 400 miles north of Greece and 160 miles east of Italy. Before we had time to properly say arrivederci to Italy, the wheels of our plane from Venice touched down in Dubrovnik, Croatia, and the next leg of our European adventure had begun! Like many good things, getting to Aman Sveti Stefan does not come easy. We rented a car in Dubrovnik (the largest airport close to the resort) and made the 2+ hour drive to the town of Sveti Stefan. The late hour of our landing combined with the unfamiliarity of the region made the 63 mile drive feel like an eternity. A slight fear welled up in me at each border crossing and my eyes strained from peering through the darkness in hopes of seeing any sign of comfort, although I'm still unsure what I was hoping to see given it was my first time in the country. Halfway through our drive along the winding roads, with Greg exhausted and our 6 month old daughter asleep in the backseat, I started seriously doubting my decision to book a hotel so far removed from the rest of our travels, praying it would - in fact - be as magical as I had hoped. We’d soon learn that sometimes a difficult journey makes a visit that much more special.
When I pulled back the white linen curtains of our room's window the next morning, the sun rising over the Albanian Alps and hitting the pink sand beach below, I instantly knew Aman Sveti Stefan was worth the long trip. The resort is broken up into two sections - Villa Molicer, a 19th century villa that was once the summer residence of the queen of Yugoslavia surrounded by olive trees and ancient forests on the mainland, and Sveti Stefan Island, the iconic fortified fishing village which I fell in love with from the picture mentioned above.
We stayed on the island (open seasonally from May 1st to October 20th) in one of the 50 rooms, all of which have been meticulously restored to pay tribute to the island's history and updated to include all of the modern amenities you’d expect. Our room was large in size, with a family room separate from the bedroom and spacious bathroom. The cottage (as they called it) was styled to look like the dwellings of the fishermen who originally called the island home, showcasing exposed beams, stone interior walls and rich linens. Marble apothecary dishes filled with local sea salts lined the bathroom countertop, and each night we'd return to our room to find a new gift had been delivered - a bottle of wine, leather luggage tags, etc. - many beautifully crafted by monks connected with the property, all native to Montenegro. Beyond the unparalleled setting, we found these small touches made a huge impact.
Before I dive into all the amenities the resort offers, I want to briefly touch on the island's history as I believe to fully appreciate the resort today, you have to know its fabled past. Originally built by 12 families in the 15th century in a Montenegro aligned with Venice at the height of its powers, home to fishermen and pirates, converted to a luxury hotel by a communist government, frequented by both literal and figurative royalty, and now run by Aman since 2009... Not many places can make those claims! And while the island’s history has many phases, it is the charm of the 15th century and the 12 families that built it that oozes throughout the property.
Days are intended to be quiet and peaceful. In between strolls along the cobbled lanes, happily getting lost in the maze of ancient churches and handsome courtyards, we found ourselves lounging waterside. The island is home to two cliffside pools - each tucked away in their own little corner of the island, each offering stunning views of the sea - and three separate beaches which fill in the coastline on the mainland. Needless to say, the resort offers plenty of means by which to relax and recharge, which is exactly what we needed having just wrapped up 10 full days in Italy and time in Croatia still before us. During our three day stay, we only ventured off-site once to tour a nearby monastery. Though what we saw of Montenegro was limited to our drive to and from Dubrovnik, we found the country to be beautiful - a land of rugged mountains, ancient forests and pristine lakes. If you do want to explore more of this small Balkan country, the team at the hotel recommended visiting Budva, a two thousand year old town just north of Aman Sveti Stefan, and Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site showcasing some of the region’s best-preserved architecture, just a little farther up the coast.
Consistent across all Aman Resorts is an emphasis on wellness and strong design that accentuates the natural surroundings of the locale. When the two are combined it creates some of the most serene spa spaces across the globe, and the one at Sveti Stefan is no exception. Nestled between olive trees and cedar pines, the spa is located on Queen's Beach, a scalloped-shaped bay regarded as the finest in Montenegro. Treatments integrate local rituals with the country's more than 650 recognized medical herbs and centuries-old tradition of wild harvesting, making your experience unique to Montenegro. The complex is stunning, with treatment rooms, gym, yoga studio and plenty of outdoor lounging options, which is where we found ourselves in the afternoons. Just behind our cabana lied my favorite part of the spa complex, an incredible oversized black tile pool that brought the outdoors in.
For me, great meals are a cornerstone of any great trip, and the hotel's main restaurant, Arva, has a menu that showcases the best of Montenegro combined with the bold flavors of Italy. While the food was outstanding - we had dinner here both nights - the candlelit terrace with its breathtaking views elevated the experience to some of our favorite meals of the entire trip. If you're visiting Montenegro but not staying at Aman, make sure to book a dinner reservation, as it's the only way non-guests can get on the island. You will love the magic of the evening, and get to experience the island of Sveti Stefan. Whether it was a four course meal at Arva, or antipasto in the late afternoon at the open-air piazza in the heart of the island village, everything we ate was of top quality, fresh and delicious!
I've been intrigued by Aman Resorts for a few years now, thanks to their meticulously designed destinations set in some of the most diverse landscapes around the globe. Their secluded, peaceful settings are what initially attracted me to them, but are also what made me hesitant staying at one with a baby. Even though children are welcome (a nice kids’ club is on site for older children), I was a bit unsure if, once we arrived, I'd wonder what we were thinking bringing Sophie. All of my concerns dissipated as soon as we checked in! Far from just being welcome, they made us feel like Sophie was the princess of the island. The staff were some of the most warm-hearted, hospitable people we've ever met, frequently checking to see how she was doing or if she needed anything. They took the time to play with her, had car seats and high chairs ready without us asking, and made our room feel like home with not only a crib but also a baby swing, diaper genie and bath products just for her. Traveling with a baby obviously looks different than it did when it was just Greg and I, so staying somewhere that went above and beyond to make our time as comfortable and easy as possible went a long way. Aman Sveti Stefan is just the first of many Aman stays in our family's future!
If your travels take you to Southeastern Europe, I cannot recommend enough including a stay at Aman Sveti Stefan into your itinerary! We concluded that four days would probably be the perfect length of stay, though you may want to stay longer if you plan to make it your home base and take day trips to explore the country a little more. I'll be honest, a stay here does not come cheap, but if you want to experience a one-of-a-kind destination, the price is well worth it. Since we visited the end of May, our room rate was nearly half the price it goes for in the height of summer. Whether it be May or September, we have come to love visiting Europe during shoulder-season. The downside to visiting during these months is the potential for cooler weather, but less crowds and better prices are sometimes worth the risk. Just something to consider if you look into booking a stay.
It’s amazing to think that a trip booked on a whim based on an intriguing picture led to such a wonderful experience, but that is the magic Aman Sveti Stefan. I hope to return one day. I hope to sit on the beach and stare upon the red-tile roof island, listening to the waves crash along the stone walls, daydreaming about its past and grateful to experience a piece of history come to life. And I hope you can too.
