72 Hours in Dubrovnik, Croatia: My Travel Guide To The Pearl Of The Adriatic
Waves crashing with a vengeance against the stone walls of a fortress city rising from the sea, its white foam bubbling atop the azure waters creating a perfect harmony of power and peace. The steady hum of a harbor full of life; the boats that call it home basking in the glorious Mediterranean sunshine. Salty air kissing my skin wherever I go. The golden glow of sunset illuminating limestone walls and red roofs as far as the eye can see. These are the vivid details, the memories of Dubrovnik that will stick with me forever, the reasons I would return. And in these small details is where the beauty of Dubrovnik lies.
Set on the southernmost tip of Croatia, Dubrovnik is a maze of limestone streets nestled safely inside ancient city walls that rise dramatically from the sea. The Pearl of the Adriatic, as it is affectionately known, is easily a contender both for Europe’s most beautiful city and for the best preserved medieval city in the world. Once you pass through its gates you won’t want to leave, as you will be captured by the narrow alleyways packed with cafe tables, green-shuttered buildings with their terra-cotta tiled roofs, and hidden doorways in walls that lead to rocky coves perfect for enjoying a sunset.
Before visiting, I knew very little about Croatia. Images of Dubrovnik’s dramatic coastline and city walls had captured my attention, and I’m so glad they did, because not only are the walls even more awe-inspiring in person, but Dubrovnik offers so much more! The four days I spent there last May with my husband and baby girl were a great mix of sightseeing and relaxation. While we had planned to explore more of the country on day trips sailing to nearby islands (Croatia is home to over 1,000!), we hit unseasonable rainy weather and stayed put, which allowed us to become very familiar with all Dubrovnik has to offer.
One thing I discovered is that you don’t need much time to justify making a stop here if you are touring the Dalmatian Coast (more of our trip here). In fact, a short 24 hours will give you enough time to see the highlights and then some. While a short trip will leave you feeling satisfied, much of the city's charm lies in savoring the slow pace of the Adriatic Sea. So, my itinerary spans 72 hours, allotting time for everything from sightseeing to sunbathing. It also sticks strictly to pedestrian-only Old Town, with everything being in walking distance - we didn’t get in a car once! If you are short on time, I would suggest skipping Day 2 of this itinerary, and if you’re really short on time, Day 1 will cover the highlights.
DAY 1
Check-in to Hotel Excelsior : I believe where you stay sets the stage for your entire trip, so picking the right accommodations is key. In Dubrovnik, a stay at Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik is undoubtedly the way to go! Located just steps from the medieval fortress walls, Hotel Excelsior offers the most enviable location of any hotel in the city, not only providing quick walking access to all of the main attractions, but also offering gorgeous views of Old Town and the Adriatic that you can admire 24/7 from the comfort of your room. A former royal villa dating back to 1913, the hotel’s history of entertaining famous guests - from kings & queens to Hollywood royalty - is noteworthy, though the hotel is anything but stuck in the past. The stunning, modern interior is an inspired contrast against the old world charm right outside its doors, making Hotel Excelsior feel alive more than ever. For additional accommodation options, consider one of Adriatic Luxury Hotels’ other seaside properties.
Leisurely Lunch at Old Port : One of the most impactful moments during your time in Dubrovnik will undoubtedly be walking through Ploče Gate for the first time. One step through the stone curtain and you’ll feel as though you’ve been transported back to another world! There’s much to take in once you enter Old Town, but one of the first things you’ll notice is Old Port, the lively harbor off to your left, which is a great place to enjoy lunch. Grab a front row table at restaurant Gradska Kavana Arsenal for a leisurely lunch of Mediterranean cuisine as you watch boats peacefully bob up and down under the glistening sun.
Walk the City Walls : Any quick search on what to do in Dubrovnik will tell you that walking the city walls is the absolute “must do” and I couldn’t agree more. Built between the 11th and 13th centuries to protect the city from war and epidemics, these ancient stone walls encapsulate Old Town and offer a unique vantage point into so many aspects of the city. From this mile-long narrow pathway, you are able to look down into hidden courtyards and alleyways and get a glimpse into the day-to-day life in the city itself, or pan out to take a wide view admiring the stunning uniformity of the city’s architecture and design. I recommend a guided tour, as it will offer insight on the region’s rich history that you simply won’t get walking on your own. Check out Dubrovnik Walks for guided tours - we had a fantastic local guide - or if you do decide to venture on your own, start and finish at Pile Gate, which is where the ticket office is located, and be sure to give yourself an hour or two.
Shop Along Stradun : At the center of the limestone maze that is Dubrovnik lies Stradun, Old Town’s main street and promenade where uniform buildings of stone facades and green shutters house a wide array of shops and restaurants. You’re bound to find yourself on this street a number of times during your visit, but make time to pop in and out of its shops at least once. Some of it is touristy, but local gems are scattered throughout. My favorite shops (though not all on Stradun): Maria Store for a curated selection of designer goods, UJE for Mediterranean goodies like olive oil and pickled capers, Dubrovnik Christmas Shop for the classic ornament souvenir, and Atelier Secret for bauble-like pendants made in traditional Dubrovnik designs (you’ll see these everywhere and be convinced you need one in your jewelry collection!).
Dinner at Kopun : Just steps from the heart of town in the shadow of the beautiful Church of St. Ignatius, Restaurant Kopun’s setting is as noteworthy as its menu, which is filled with traditional Croatian recipes passed down from generation to generation. Think hearty meets healthy! Enjoy dinner on their large outdoor terrace outfitted with heaters and plaid blanket-draped chairs to keep guests cozy on cool nights. It’s an inviting atmosphere and the food is delicious! Restaurants in Dubrovnik fill up in the summer months, so I recommend booking dinner reservations in advance.
Sunset Drinks at Buza Bar : There are few things better than a European coastal town in the summer, and Dubrovnik boasts some of the most stunning coastline of them all. To take it all in and unwind after a full day, follow the “Cold Drinks With The Most Beautiful Views” signs, then walk through the walls. Buza translates to “a-hole-in-the-wall”, and a literal hole-in-the-wall it is - one that leads to a cliffside ledge with a bar on it. Arranged on multiple levels of rocks directly above the sea, this is the ideal spot for swooning over Adriatic sunsets!
DAY 2
Market Run : Start your day with a trip to the oldest open-air market in Dubrovnik. Open daily until noon, Green Market is a great way to experience Dubrovnik as the residents do. Taste seasonal cheeses, olives and Mediterranean spices and pick up Croatian delicacies of arancini (candied orange peel), caramelized almonds and dried figs to enjoy once back home.
Brunch and Beach : As I mentioned, the beauty of Dubrovnik is found in the quiet moments, and this afternoon is all about soaking up the sunshine and sea. Start with a leisurely lunch at Prora, Hotel Excelsior’s beachfront restaurant, and then spend the rest of the afternoon sunbathing there along the rocky coast. It’s laid-back luxury at its finest! Or, if you want to soak it in like the locals do, head to Banje Beach just outside the town walls. Both locations will offer unbeatable views of Old Town!
Dinner at Azur : Prior to our trip I had read review after review (from TripAdvisor to Vogue) that Azur is the best meal in Dubrovnik, so of course I booked a table. Located off the beaten path down a quiet lane on the edge of Old Town, Azur is the change of pace you’ll want, both from the crowds and menus around town. It offers a unique menu of Mediterranean cuisine with an Asian twist (cleverly called “CroAsian”) - a winning combination! After dinner, stop in Bar by Azur, a cozy watering hole for a nightcap.
DAY 3
Grab Coffee and Shop at Cogito : One of my favorite stops in Dubrovnik is at Cogito Coffee and KAWA concept store steps from Ploče Gate. This is the place to go for your morning cup of joe and to pick up souvenirs you’ll actually want to take home. From Adriatic sea sponges, Dalmatian Coast cookbooks and cold pressed EVOO, my suitcase was filled with KAWA gems!
Explore Lokrum Island : For another vantage point of Dubrovnik, plus a little time on the sparkling blue waters, head to Old Port and catch a boat ride to Lokrum Island. With ferries departing almost hourly (and more frequently in July and August), it’s easy to get to this forested island of pines and olive trees that’s just a stone’s throw from the mainland. Spend the morning leisurely strolling through botanical gardens where wild peacocks lead the way, and exploring the medieval Benedictine monastery. If you want to spend more time on the island, there are shaded beaches to relax on.
Local Lunch Along Prijecko ul : Back in Old Town, make your way to Stradun then climb up the steep stairs to the next main street, Prijecko ul. This narrow lane is jam packed with all types of restaurants, making it the perfect spot for lunch. The abundance of options can be a bit overwhelming (we walked back and forth a few times before making a decision!), but it’s less touristy and more residential than Stradun, giving you the chance to see (and taste) another side of Dubrovnik.
Walk to Fort Lovrijenac : If you thought you couldn’t possibly see better views than what you already have, think again! Just outside the city walls, high upon a cliff, sits Fort Lovrijenac. This fortress was built in the 16th century to protect the city from Venetian attack (Dubrovnik’s historic rival), and on the walls a historic inscription can still be read: “Freedom cannot be sold for gold”. It’s a bit of a hike, so make sure to wear comfortable shoes, but it’s more than worth it for the one-of-a-kind panoramic views. While here you’ll notice a stone landing jutting out into the sea. It’s a fantastic spot to take photos, with the unruly sea crashing against the imposing fortress as your backdrop. If you want to sit and take it in (and trust me you will), there’s a long limestone ledge that wraps around the wall, making it the perfect spot to soak up a little afternoon sun and dip your toes in the water.
Visit a Medieval Pharmacy : Visiting a monastery may not typically peak your interest, but it should while in Dubrovnik. Here’s why: hidden behind the Franciscan Monastery’s solid stone walls you’ll discover not only a tranquil cloister filled with orange and palm trees, but also the third-oldest pharmacy in the world. This medieval pharmacy dating back to 1317 is still working today and sells a variety of homemade medicinal and cosmetic remedies. It’s quite beautiful and you can pick up a souvenir of natural rose face cream (from a medieval recipe nonetheless!) to take home.
Dalmatian Coast Dinner at Maslina Tavern : For your last night in town, book a table at Maslina, a traditional Dubrovnik-style tavern on the balmy beachfront at Hotel Dubrovnik Palace, offering one last glance of the glorious sea views you’ll long for once you return home. Enjoy traditional Dalmatian dishes such as Octopus Carpaccio or the signature Fisherman’s Pot as you’re serenaded by both live music and the crashing waves. The perfect farewell to Dubrovnik!
