Hotel Spotlight: The Fife Arms, Scottish Highlands
PROPERTY OVERVIEW
What’s The Vibe: An eccentric and luxurious hotel in the Highlands where Scottish traditions and culture are beautifully balanced by contemporary art, whimsical design and noteworthy dining. It is like no other 5-star property in, quite frankly, the world.
Who’s It For: Saavy travelers seeking a unique property where history, design, great food and adventure are all equally prioritized. A rare gem in the sense that it’s a stay comfortably suited for anyone, whether it be the multi-generational family, the jet setting couple, or the lone explorer.
When To Go: A year-round destination offering plenty of seasonal activities. September, however, offers guests mild weather and the opportunity to experience the annual Highland Games and the Braemar Literary Festival, a stimulating weekend of award-winning literature in a destination known for producing famous works, such as Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island.
Rooms: 5/5 Food & Drink: 5/5 Service: 5/5 Location: 5/5 Experience: 5/5
A few years ago my family found ourselves planning a trip to Scotland. A new country for me, I envisioned the seven of us - clad in olive waxed jackets and muddy rain boots - jumping in and out of old school Defenders as we traversed rolling hills and moorland. Fireside whisky tastings and hearty meals in tartan-covered dining rooms would fill the spaces between. Rugged yet luxurious. In other words, I wanted to spend a weekend with the royals at Balmoral. Daydreams aside, I must say, our time in the Scottish Highlands turned out to be everything I hoped it would be.
Set in the heart of the wild and remote Cairngorms National Park lies the sleepy village of Braemar - a collection of stony buildings, a babbling river and a red-trimmed Victorian coaching inn that once you step foot inside, you instantly realize is not your average boutique hotel. Welcome to The Fife Arms - a whimsical work of art that beautifully balances Highlands' heritage with contemporary flair. Case in point: a neon chandelier of glass antlers hangs above the concierge desk where staff is outfitted in custom tweed and imposing stag heads peer down from above. Steps away sits the handsome drawing room where guests have the hard decision of choosing which piece of art to lose themselves in - the mesmerizing hand-painted ceiling inspired by Scottish agates or the Picasso on the far wall. Compared to the rest of the property, these spaces are understated.
Owned by the husband-and-wife power couple behind Europe’s renowned art gallery Hauser and Wirth, the property is a museum of more than 14,000 hand-selected pieces featuring both commissioned artworks and collected antiques. In addition to the Picassos (yes, there is more than one), the sterling collection includes a playful floor-to-ceiling photograph of an Irish Wolfhound and Chihuahua, a hair-raising spider statue overtaking the courtyard, a painting by Freud and a sketch of a stag drawn by Queen Victoria, to name a few.
The curiosities continue upstairs in each of the 46 guestrooms and suites. Richly layered with antique furnishings, period wallpaper and original artwork, the rooms immerse guests in Scottish culture while telling the many stories of Braemar. No two are alike, but they all have one thing in common - heavenly mattresses handcrafted by Glencraft, a Scottish heritage company who has been making mattresses for the royal family for generations.
But mattresses aren’t The Fife Arms’ only tie with royalty. Braemar is just minutes from Balmoral Castle, The Windsors’ beloved summer home, and each year hosts the country’s largest gathering of the Scottish Highland Games, famously attended by Queen Elizabeth every year during her reign. My cozy corner room was decorated in honor of this beloved tradition, the walls adorned with black and white photographs of the games bringing years of history to life. Moreover, when the hotel opened its doors in January 2019, Prince Charles cut the ribbon. Tours of Balmoral can be arranged for guests, as well as a whisky tasting at Royal Lochnagar Distillery which sits in the shadow of the castle and is said to be the family’s favorite single malt.
We set out on the morning of our first full day to discover the untamed heart of the Highlands. The hotel’s Ghillie team - a Gaelic word for hunting or fishing guide - had arranged a bespoke experience for our family that included off-roading in the surrounding countryside as we made our way to a whisky & food tasting at a cozy hunting lodge perched in a remote corner of the Cairngorms. As I climbed into the hotel’s Defender - custom tartan covered seats and all - my Scotland fantasy was becoming reality. Along the journey, our ghillie - in his thick Scottish accent - gave us a history lesson on the area while pointing out notable locations like the bridge where Prince Charles proposed to Diana or the church the royals attend on Sundays when residing at Balmoral. Ruined villages and heathery hillsides came into view as we continued further east, the River Dee guiding us along until we all too quickly reached our destination.
Simply intended to keep men warm during chilly hunts, what the no-frills hunting lodge lacked in ambiance and amenities the team made up for with soul - both in their hospitality and the spread they prepared. As snow fluttered down outside, we learned about the art of making Scottish whisky, warming our bodies with a flight from a selection hand chosen by the hotel’s resident whisky expert, followed by a delicious meal of smoked trout almondine and root vegetables which was slowly cooked over an open fire. Taking in the dramatic views before making the drive back to Braemar, I felt a deep appreciation for the authenticity to local culture the hotel fosters as nothing about our adventure felt fabricated. Rather, it was a genuine experience with residents gracious enough to give us a glimpse into their traditional Highlands’ way of life.
Much like the hotel’s decor, the experiences available are diverse and unique. While I highly recommend our choice, everything from guided hikes to wild swimming in a nearby loch to e-biking the rugged landscape are offered. For those inspired by the property’s art collection, you can take a charcoal sketching lesson with a professional artist, sit in on a creative writing session with a poet, or design your own family tartan. And if your heart’s desire is not listed, ask the Ghillie team, they will be happy to create the perfect itinerary for your stay.
While I could make the argument for why our stream-to-table meal was the best of our stay, our other meals were equally noteworthy. The hotel’s signature restaurant, The Clunie Dining Room, is a feast for the senses. A floor-to-ceiling abstract mural wraps the space while dimly lit chandeliers and candlelight punctuate juxtaposing Old Masters paintings. Fine and fresh Scottish fare grace the plates. A nightcap can be enjoyed in either Bertie’s Whisky Bar, an intimate and seductive library setting which houses over 500 whiskies, or at Elsa’s Bar, a glamorous Art Deco space serving champagne and cocktails under a disco ball.
And then there’s the Flying Stag, the hotel’s casual pub which serves as Braemar’s watering hole. Rubbing shoulders with locals out for Sunday supper, we enjoyed not only the most delicious fish and chips we had while in Scotland, but yet another authentic experience you won’t find just anywhere. And herein lies the beauty of The Fife Arms. It’s truly a one-of-a-kind hotel speaking to the heart of any traveler, be it the explorer, the foodie or the design-driven. It’s a place where you can spend your days roaming art adorned corridors, lose yourself to the great outdoors, or even play board games as a family in the drawing room while a Picasso peeks over your shoulder.
