Edinburgh City Guide
Having touched down in Edinburgh for the first time mere hours before, I chose to believe it was real. That the shrill yet bewitching sound of bagpipes coming from a man traditionally dressed in piper's plaid, standing in the shifting shadows of Tolbooth Kirk, his feather bonnet whipping in the wind, was authentic and not simply a means of making money off tourists. Maybe it was the foggy daze of jet lag or the desire to discover Scotland as I had dreamt it to be, but either way, the sights and sounds of that moment charmed me. And what I learned during our time in the Scottish capital was that the brooding yet beautiful backdrop of medieval architecture, prickly spires and monument-studded crags is both alive and authentic. But, I also learned there is so much more.
A city with many sides (though defined by two), Edinburgh seems conflicted with itself while simultaneously in harmony. Historical yet vibrant, it's split into Old Town and New Town, each offering their distinct perspective. Tucked-away cafes, picturesque curved streets, free museums, lively pubs, hip coffee shops, eclectic stores (plenty selling cashmere and tartan too, of course) and a rugged natural landscape are yours for the taking in this city best discovered by foot. We spent three nights and two days exploring Edinburgh - one day at the start of the trip and one at the end, with a road trip to the Highlands between. And while we saw plenty and got a good overview of the city, I could have easily spent another day or two strolling its peaceful neighborhoods and touring historical sites. The city charmed me in an unexpected way, and I would definitely return! Here are my recommendations on where to stay, eat and explore.
Where To Stay
Waldorf Astoria The Caledonian - In the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, you'd be hard pressed to find better views anywhere in the city! Since we were just staying in Edinburgh one night before embarking on our road trip to the Highlands, we found the hotel to be the perfect fit for our brief introduction as it's steps from Old Town and the Prince Street Gardens. We were able to take Edinburgh in both strolling its cobblestone lanes and succumbing to jet lag in our room with a view.
Gleneagles Townhouse - Scotland's iconic countryside retreat, Gleneagles, is making itself at home in the city with its soon-to-be opened Townhouse in St. Andrew Square. A 33-room boutique hotel, restaurant and members' club, this intimate property elegantly blends old with new, and is where I hope to stay if I get the chance to return to Edinburgh! (Set to open Spring '22)
Fingal - For an experience stay, book a cabin on Fingal, a luxury floating hotel berthed on Edinburgh's waterfront next to The Royal Yacht Britannia. "A hotel with all the glamour and style of a superyacht but with an old-world elegance that is completely unique." We originally had rooms booked on the ship for our first night in town, but with only a few hours to explore before heading to the country, we decided to stay near Old Town to maximize our time.
Our Vrbo - When we returned to Edinburgh for our last two nights in Scotland, we stayed at this rental and loved everything about it! Full of character and space for a large group (it sleeps 8), this charming townhouse is located in the quaint residential neighborhood of Comely Bank, just a short walk to Dean Village and picturesque Circus Lane, and a 30 minute walk to Old Town. Amenities worth noting: a private garden and parking space.
What To Do
Old Town - Drawing you in with its formidable castle, gothic architecture and cobbled alleys, the heart and soul of Edinburgh is Old Town. If you're short on time, this is where you should spend it! While I suggest you aimlessly walk around to discover all it has to offer, there are a few standout streets not to be missed. The first is Victoria Street. Housing eclectic shops and restaurants, this steep curve of pastel buildings is said to be the inspiration behind Harry Potter's Diagon Alley, which honestly, is neither here nor there as I'm not a fan and found this charming street to be a favorite of mine! The second is Grassmarket, which Victoria Street conveniently merges into. This once historic marketplace is home to a long row of lively pubs perfect for grabbing a pint at. Also worth doing: Tour the castle to view the oldest crown jewels in Britain, which once belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots, and the city's oldest building, a chapel which dates back to the 11th century; visit the School of Divinity; have a picnic in the Prince Street Gardens if the weather permits.
New Town - As the city’s main thoroughfare, Prince Street starkly divides Edinburgh's Old Town and New Town. It's impossible not to be drawn to the moody and medieval, but New Town has plenty worth discovering as well. Venture past Prince Street and make your way to paralleling George Street where you'll find small cafes and boutique shops flanked by the stunning green parks of St. Andrew Square and Charlotte Square. We ventured over to this area on our last day and wish we would have seen it sooner! If the weather is poor or you love a good department store, pop into Harvey Nichols.
Museums - Edinburgh is home to an array of excellent museums. Two worth visiting: the Scottish National Gallery (fine art) and the National Museum of Scotland (everything from ancient Egyptian artifacts to the remains of Dolly the sheep, the first cloned mammal). The best part? They are free to the public.
Dean Village - A stroll through this quiet, residential neighborhood whose roots date back to the 12th century is not to be missed. Our morning spent meandering its cobbled lanes, taking in the architecture and the babbling stream was a highlight of our time in Edinburgh! It's a 15 minute walk from Old Town, or have a taxi drop you off at Dean Path and Damside, then walk along the Water of Leith until you reach the bottom of Hawthornbank Lane where the best views can be found.
Sunset at Calton Hill - Situated beyond the east side of Prince Street, Calton Hill’s vantage point is known for providing the best views of the city. Make your way here in the evening to watch the sun dip below Edinburgh’s prickly skyline of spires and steeples, with the formidable castle and coastline in the distance. To get here, take the stairs from Waterloo Place.
Where To Eat
Edinburgh Larder - A hidden gem, this casual cafe on the outskirts of the Royal Mile has a reputation for serving the best seasonal, locally sourced food. We all agreed it was the best meal we had in town! Go for lunch and order the Taste of Scotland Plate. You won't be disappointed!
Cairngorms Coffee Roasters - Fresh roasted coffee and delicious baked goods. Stop by the bright and airy Melville Street location to grab an espresso on your way to Dean Village.
The Lookout - Simple, earthy ingredients that showcase the best the area has to offer compete with stunning views of the Edinburgh skyline for your attention.
Forage and Chatter - Tucked in a basement just a few blocks off Prince Street, Forage and Chatter offers a cozy ambience of tartan booths and rustic wooden tables that will leave you wanting to linger well after your meal is done. Expect delicious, seasonal Scottish cuisine, much of which is foraged.
The Witchery - In the heart of Old Town, located in a sixteenth-century merchant's house, The Witchery is one of the city's most exceptional dining destinations. Dine by candlelight in the dramatic and undeniably romantic dining room, where oak paneled walls, red leather booths and hand-painted ceilings transport you back to its once medieval setting. If you're looking to book a special meal while in town, this is the place.
Mary’s Milk Bar - We didn’t make it here, but this gelato and chocolate shop on historic Grassmarket came highly recommended. Mary makes the ice cream every morning until 11am so you can enjoy the freshest scoops in an ever-changing variety of flavors.
I.J. Mellis Cheesemongers - The finest selection of artisan Scottish cheeses, sourced from small scale farmhouse producers. If you don’t make it to the Cheese Lounge at their Morningside location for a glass of wine and board, you can sample and shop at their other locations across the city. We popped into the small storefront on Victoria Street and grabbed an assortment to go.
Afternoon Tea at Signet Library - Is it really a trip to the UK if you don’t have afternoon tea at least once? There are plenty of places to enjoy tea and cake in the city but only one that blends serene. with scholarly for a stunning backdrop.
